By the time I made it to Austin, Texas, the secret was already out. The once-midsized city is now the 10th largest city in the U.S. Longtime residents lament the growth and fast-paced change, led, in part, by Silicon Valley refugees in search of affordable real estate, better tax laws, and fewer restrictions. But as an Austin first-timer, I was blissfully unaware of the battle between old and new. I was too busy falling in love with a city that felt both funky and swanky, green and urban.
I spent the morning walking along Lady Bird Lake, scootering through downtown, and thrift shopping on South First Street and South Congress Avenue. Our lunch destination, Casa de Luz, was recommended by a friend and Austinite who claimed it was her only Austin “must-do.”
Casa de Luz ended up being much more than a lunch spot. It’s more like a village, with its own community, restaurant, and a string of wellness-focused businesses housed within its stucco walls. It may be located in the heart of Austin, but it seemed completely unperturbed, and arguably unaffected, by the changes raging around it. It is part of Austin, yet separate from it — a true oasis in a city facing change and upheaval.
The entry into this world is marked by a red stucco gate set above a cobblestone pathway shrouded in greenery. From the entrance, a leafy tunnel runs through a forest of bamboo and palm trees interrupted by an occasional storefront touting their offerings on sandwich boards: an apothecary, a meditation lounge, a kava bar, a cold-pressed juicery. I peer into a few but continue with my quest to find lunch.
At the end of the tunnel, a protected plaza with a playground and outdoor seating sprawls. I have arrived.
I pay for my lunch at the counter, in advance. The menu says everything is organic, vegan, and free from sugar, gluten, and refined oil. I’m not sure what remains to eat and cook with, but I continue through to the open kitchen and hand my plate to the kitchen staff while I sip a glass of hibiscus mint tea. An Ayurvedic proverb is scrawled over the entryway, setting the stage: “When diet is wrong medicine is of no use. When diet is correct medicine is of no need.”
After a few minutes, my plate is returned, overflowing with colorful fare. (Apparently sugar-, gluten-, and refined-oil-free vegans do just fine.) There’s a hot green lentil soup, a pile of greens tossed in the best salad dressing I’ve ever had, kale in a sesame sauce, empanadas, guacamole, and pickled veggies — all for just over $15, tax included.
The food is clean, healthy, and surprisingly delicious — even for someone who’s not vegan, gluten-free, sugar-free, and refined-oil-free. The menu changes daily based on what’s in season and what’s on hand, and the overarching vision is food as medicine. It’s the sort of place you eat at once and think about daily.
You could argue that Casa de Luz alone is worthy of a trip to Austin. (It has ongoing yoga classes, creativity courses, meditation workshops, and a holistic wellness center, in addition to amazing food.) But if you want the full South Austin experience, read on for some ideas on where to stay and what to do near Casa de Luz.
Where to Stay Nearby
Courtesy of The Loren at Lady Bird Lake
I stayed at The Loren at Lady Bird Lake, a hotel that’s perched on the edge of the water overlooking downtown Austin. It’s less than 10 minutes on foot (or 3 minutes by car) from Casa de Luz and is what I like to call a “five-star-plus” hotel.
It’s got all the five-star perks you’d expect: great service, beautiful rooms, high-end decor, and a great location — plus a glass elevator leading to a rooftop restaurant, rooms with floor-to-ceiling windows, a lobby that’s dripping in art, and real plants everywhere you look. It’s glamorous without being stuffy. And that goes for the service too.
Another great option is Carpenter Hotel, a hip, neighborhood-feeling spot with a terrace, garden, and outdoor pool.
What to Do Nearby
Brandon Bell/Getty Images
Casa de Luz, The Loren, and Carpenter Hotel are all located on the south side of the cypress-lined Lady Bird Lake, which is a river-like reservoir on the Colorado River. It’s a particularly green corner of Austin that’s just over a mile from downtown. The neighborhood is built around a 358-acre park that houses one of the city’s crown jewels: Barton Springs.
Barton Springs is an underground spring that bubbles out of the earth, clean and fresh, at 68 to 70 degrees year-round. The spring feeds Barton Springs Pool, a public swimming pool with grassy hillsides that are perfect for sunbathing. And depending on when you go, admission is free. Below the pool, toward Lady Bird Lake, are a series of spring-fed swimming holes replete with rope swings.
East of the springs run South First Street and South Congress Avenue, two streets that make it easy to argue that you don’t have to step foot in North Austin or downtown to experience the best of Austin. Prototype Vintage Design off of South Congress is a must-visit if you’re looking for high-quality, second-hand clothing and don’t want to dig through plenty of filler to find the good stuff. Devil’s Details Boutique on South First specializes in vintage jewelry, dresses, and accessories.