“Hurry up, we saved you a spot on the hayride,” Jonathan Bellingham, the owner of Capon Springs and Farms Resort, tells me with a smile.
It was Friday night, and my family and I had just arrived at the historic resort that dates back to the 19th century. The drive from Washington, D.C. to the Potomac Highlands region in eastern West Virginia took us less than two hours and was dotted with views of small towns and forests, rolling hills, and scenic vineyards.
The property is just a 10-minute drive from Wardensville, a small town at the foothills of the Appalachian Mountains that has generated a lot of buzz in the past three years thanks to several new businesses that have popped up on its main drag since the COVID-19 pandemic forced people to rediscover the peace and quiet of West Virginia’s communities.
Native Americans once inhabited the area, which eventually became the site of several battles between English settlers and Native Nations during the 18th century. The town was incorporated in 1879 as part of Hardy County. Nowadays, Wardensville is the quintessential weekend getaway blending history, modern conveniences, and the stunning natural sights that this corner of the country is famous for.
During the summer, Wardensville provides a welcome break from D.C.’s humidity. And in the fall, it is a haven for leaf-peeping enthusiasts, with several national forests and a state park offering miles of hiking trails, and tons of outdoor recreational activities.
Read on for a handy guide on making the most out of your stay in Wardensville — whether seeking a fun getaway filled with family-friendly activities or a heart-pumping, adventure-packed vacation.
Courtesy of West Virginia Department of Tourism
How to Get There
Wardensville is 100 miles west of downtown Washington, D.C., along I-66 West. The route passes through Shenandoah Valley, so if you feel like taking a short detour, you can also visit Middleburg in Loudoun County or make a pitstop at one of the many small towns (or wineries) in Virginia Wine Country along the way.
Where to Stay
When Capon Springs was “discovered” in 1765 by a European named Henry Frye, the area’s mineral-rich alkaline waters, which flow at a cool 65 degrees, had been frequented by Native Americans for thousands of years. (In fact, the name capon is derived from the Shawnee language meaning “healing waters.”)
In just a few decades, Capon Springs became a bustling resort with a bathhouse and accommodations. Since the early 1930s, the property, which offers guest rooms as well as standalone cottages, has been owned and run by Bellingham’s family and has become the go-to vacation destination for generations of families. (One older lady at the hayride said her family had been vacationing at the resort for 90 years.)
Courtesy of West Virginia Department of Tourism
What makes Capon Springs unique is that it is run like a summer camp — there is even a flag-raising ceremony every morning — and the all-inclusive fare comprises three fixed meals a day. Amenities include a communal firepit, a main house with a library, a game room, and a spacious patio with plenty of seating overlooking the resort grounds. There are also hammocks, two 9-hole golf courses, a fishing pond (guests can have their catch cooked at the resort’s kitchen), tennis and pickleball courts (yes, certain amenities are better than your childhood’s summer camp), a year-round pool with mineral water, lawn games, an escape room, and a standalone spa with four treatment rooms and soaking bathtubs.
WiFi is available only in one of the buildings. Bellingham said he wants guests to disconnect, enjoy the resort’s amenities, and explore the 4,700 acres of wilderness surrounding it.
Where to Eat
Drifters Café
This charming coffee shop, which started as a food truck, opened its first location on the side of a mint-hued building on main street Wardensville and is the perfect way to start your day. Pair your caffeinated drink with a breakfast sandwich, bagel, or a healthy smoothie. And if you happen to stop by for lunch, the menu also has many wraps, salads, and quesadilla options. Indoor and outdoor seating (in front of the bookstore in the same building) are available.
Courtesy of West Virginia Department of Tourism
Mack’s Bingo Kitchen
This new modern American eatery opened in October 2023 and is part of a non-profit organization, Farms Works Wonders. It supports local Appalachian youth by providing them with opportunities and training in the hospitality industry, with all profits from the businesses invested into the program. However, that’s not to say that food takes a secondary role.
The rustic chic dining room boasts high ceilings and an open kitchen, where elevated Appalachian-inspired fare is blended with Italian and Greek influences and always prepared with fresh ingredients from the restaurant’s farm as well as local producers. On the menu: grilled Virginia oysters, grilled whole trout with roasted winter squash and pumpkin seeds, and local pork plate with dumplings and greens. The freshly baked sourdough focaccia with tomatoes and sage, and house-made pimento cheese are a must.
Book a table well in advance because Mack’s Bingo Kitchen fills up pretty quickly.
Mack’s Bingo Bakery
Next door to Mack’s Bingo Kitchen is this light-filled space where local youth whip up sweet and savory pastries from scratch — from West Virginia staples like pepperoni rolls to seasonal homemade pies and cookies. The bakery was named the best in West Virginia the year it opened, and the pastries are sold at Wardensville Garden Market.
Where to Shop
Wardensville Garden Market
Located in the historic Frye farmhouse, Wardensville Garden Market is one of the town’s most visited stops. With ample parking space and picnic tables outside, it is a lot more than just a marketplace. Inside, you’ll find fresh produce from Farms Works Wonders’ garden, baked goods from Mack’s Bingo Bakery, skincare and bath products as well as many pantry items — almost all of which were produced locally by small businesses and artisans.
Courtesy of West Virginia Department of Tourism
Lost River Trading Post
You will recognize Lost River Trading Post by the bright red bull sculpture in a cowboy hat standing outside. The “modern, mountain general store” is actually a multi-hyphenated space that acts as a gallery, coffee shop, events venue, beer garden, and a store for all things made in America and produced by small, independent businesses.
Dreamed up by Washington, D.C. transplants Paul Yandura and Donald Hitchcock, Lost River Trading Post epitomizes the spirit of Wardensville rooted in its history but with steady footing in the present. Shop from an extensive — probably the most extensive in this area — selection of local small-batch brews, wine, kombucha, antiques, home decor, accessories, jams and spreads, sauces, spices, dry goods, and so much more. Put it this way: there is no way you’re leaving Lost River Trading Post empty-handed or on an empty stomach.
Dakota Glass Works
West Virginia has over a century-old history of glass manufacturing. Dakota Glass Works opened its doors a couple of years ago and is operated by Farms Works Wonders. The space serves as an educational hub and glassblowing studio, where during the day, visitors can observe artisans creating beautiful objects like vases, glasses, and sculptures.
The studio also hosts visiting artists and glassblowing classes, with plenty of seating for curious observers.
Courtesy of West Virginia Department of Tourism
Word Play
This independent bookstore, occupying the front of the building where Drifters Café is also located, was founded by native West Virginian Marlene England and her husband Tom, a former environmental scientist. You’ll find volumes on race, gender, censorship, self help, travel, national parks, and many books dedicated to West Virginia and the Appalachian lifestyle and culture. Forgot to pack games and books for your little ones? Half the store is neatly stocked with games, puzzles, and children’s books.
What to Do
Lost River State Park
Almost 4,000 acres worth of serene views and wilderness await visitors in Lost River State Park. Most travelers head for the famous Cranny Crow overlook that boasts panoramic vistas of five counties, but even if you venture out on one of 20 hiking trails, you’ll find that your trip here was worth it. In the summer, there is a swimming pool open for public use, picnic areas, and playgrounds. Want to stay overnight? The park has two campsites and 26 cabins — but book those well in advance.
Warden Lake
Fishing enthusiasts will find tranquility at this 44-acre lake, about five miles north of Wardensville. The entire wildlife area encompasses 110 scenic acres, but anglers come here to try their luck at catching trout. (The lake is stocked for four months starting in February each year.) There is a public fishing access site and a parking lot in the southwest part of the lake.